This Fact Sheet is primarily aimed at the newcomer to Building R/C Model Aircraft

The Hyde Four Stroke Engine mount has been around for some time now and can only be described as fit and forget. This is not to say there are no other types of mount you can use. In fact this year, both ZN and PL Products of France have come up with their own versions of this type of mount with some encouraging results. However, for the purposes of this article we will be using the Hyde Engine Mount, in fact our customers have found that you can indeed fit and forget it!

Attaching Engine to the Hyde Mount

1. Mark off mount beams suit to engine, allowing for the front of F1 to be positioned 162mm back from the nose. The engine prop driver needs to protrude 1mm out from the nose.
2. Drill the beams to suit (Dubro 312 4-40 x 1") socket head bolts. From the bottom of the beams drill half way though the beam to allow for the blind nuts stem (Dubro 135 4-40) to protrude into the beam. This is to prevent cracking/splitting of the beam. Insert the blind nuts into the beams and cyno in place.
3. Mount the engine on to the beam using large diameter washers, this will allow for a small amount of adjustment on the mount. For the initial set-up make sure that the engine is in the centre of the boltholes.

Attaching the Hyde Mount to F1

1. All Kits purchased from Probuild come with holes pre-drilled in F1 to suit the Hyde Soft Engine Mount (or the Engine mount of your choice) to give the correct side thrust and down thrust.
2. Attach the engine mount to the F1 using (Dubro576 6-32 x _) Socket head bolts and (Dubro136) blind nuts mounted on a plywood plate positioned behind the F1. The holes in the F1 can be enlarged slightly to allow for adjustment if required.

Positioning and Gluing F1 in the fuz

1. Finally dry fit the mount, engine and F1 in the fuz to align the spinner flush with the nose. If fitted correctly the back plate of the spinner will align squarely against the nose, the correct side thrust and down thrust will be set.
2. Remove assembly and sand a 1.5mm gap all around the F1 to allow glue to be squeezed between the F1 and the Fuz. (See Sketch)

3. Cyano three 1.5mm balsa spacers to the F1 on the sides and the top, these will hold the F1 away from the fuz while you apply the glue to the joint.
4. Re-assemble the F1, engine and mount in the fuz, with the back plate of the spinner packed 1mm away from the nose.
5. Hold the assembly in place and apply a small amount of cyano to the spacers on the F1.

This is best done by standing the fuz on it's nose and using a long piece of thin piano wire, dribble a small amount of Cyano down the wire on to the spacers

6. When set; carefully remove the engine and mount leaving the F1 in the correct position in the Fuz with a 1.5mm gap all round.

7. Using Chemie Technique 101 epoxy or similar mix with some micro fibres to a stiff consistency, then pack the gap between the f1 and the Fuz with this glue, taking care not disturb the position of the F1. Smooth off square with the F1 and leave to set.
8. Next you will need to re-inforce both sides of the joint with a fillet of glue where the F1 butts up to the fuz. Using Chemie Technique 101 epoxy or similar mix with some micro fibres to a stiff consistency and apply to both sides of the F1 to produce a 6mm diagonal fillet. (See Picture)

Using an old credit card cut a 45deg angle across one corner (about 6mm across the diagonal); this will act as a template to produce a fillet of glue across the 90deg angle where F1 it butts up to the fuz.

9. The mount and engine can now be re-fitted in preparation for the fitting of a nose ring.

At Probuild we stock the full range of Engine Mounts from Hyde, ZN and PL Products. We also stock a full range of Dubro Items including Nuts, bolts and Hex Ball wrenches etc. Please contact us for details.